Unit 10: Jewelling & Bluing
Lesson 32 – The Art of Polishing & Jewelling
As the continuation of Lesson 31, I like how it delves deeper into the how-to parts. The explanations of how to hold a barrel while polishing; the techniques and compounds used are very educating. I feel nothing was left out (with the exception of experience), from the types of polishing wheels and compounds and what to watch out for such as washing out screw holes.
I have always liked how Jewelling looked. This was probably my favorite part of this lesson; I like how it looks on firearms and it does make them look nicer. However, I don’t believe most people would use it on a hunting rifle or high use firearm.
Lesson 33 – Learn Custom Finishing and Plating
I enjoyed reading and learning about the different types of bluing/browning. It is amazing how many different ways this can be accomplished, the formulas used for the different techniques and the various finishes they can produce. I would like to try most of these types including what is really no longer practiced.
Cerokaote, being the easiest one I would save for last just for that reason, being the easiest. How to set up a tank and use it, and setting up the hangers is really useful especially for a beginner like myself. The water, solution and the heating are all explained in great detail. The descriptions of what the parts look like in different stages of the process and how they look as the chemicals work or fail is really helpful and gives you insight as to how to accomplish better results.
Lesson 34 – All About Bluing
I liked the comparison between the Black Oxide Bluing and the Hot Bluing. The Black Oxide can be pricey if you are on a budget and also needs to be away from the shop and well ventilated. The Hot Bluing seems a little bit easier but can give better results.
The solutions and acids are regulated by the EPA and may factor into which way you choose to do this, based on the area you live in and how often you may do a refinishing job.
Learning the different types of methods and how the steel reacts to different chemicals and solutions is really necessary. Forehand knowledge prepares you for any mistakes or accidents and how to try and make them.
The plating part is an interesting aspect for a firearm. I do like the basic analogy of how these types work and the explanation of differences and similarities in Chemical and Electrical plating.
Lesson 35 – Choosing Inletted Stock
This lesson has always been something I have wondered about for custom or replacement stocks. What types of wood can be used for stocks? As I see now, there are many types of wood that can be used from hard wood to softer wood. Although soft woods such as Pine are not recommended. Walnut and Maple are the top two to use but Birch, Cherry and Mahogany are some other types that are used. When choosing your wood, I never realized there is a grading system for the wood as well, only choosing the highest grade possible.
Choosing a stock Blank or inletted stock really would be up to your time constraints, how much finishing work you plan to put into it and mainly your skill level. Most jobs are under the time constraint, and an owner may want it back as soon as possible, so an inletted stock would be the best choice. If you have no time frame for completion and like the cutting, carving and all the hand work, a blank is perfect.
Conclusion:
This unit teaches a great deal about the types of bluing/browning, the woods used for stocks, tank set ups and some lessons that have fallen by the wayside. Along with the pro’s and con’s of these types of processes. Some of them are time-consuming and some are simpler but still just as delicate to perform.
Learn what is best for you; a more challenging process can be learned as you move on and gain experience.
Written by J. Jacobs, The MGS Experience Student
